new to TR7

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 16 Feb 2011 05:56

All:

I just pickup a 1981 TR7 Convt, but the car has be parking out for 11 years. The last time it ran was in 2000. Need some recommendation, should I try to hand crank the engine to see if it still move. or should I change oil and put in a battery so I can turn the key to see if it crank? What is the best way to handle my situation.

Can someone tell me how big of AMP I need for the battery? I try to put one in today, the same one they spec for a 2.0L Mezada, but it was too big to sit in the battery bay.

Also, this car seem to have fuel injection which I did expected. I thought they use the su carb type for this car. Anyone know if Triumph sold car with fuel injection or did someone did a mod on this car for the fuel injection. thanks.

Gubi · Postby **Gubi** » 16 Feb 2011 06:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by iedkwokI just pickup a 1981 TR7 Convt, but the car has be parking out for 11 years. The last time it ran was in 2000.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

"Now let me start by saying... Good for you son! It's always good to see young people taking an interest in danger. Now a lot of people are going to be telling you you're crazy, and maybe they're right. But the fact of the matter is: Bones heal. Chicks dig scars. And the United States of America has the best doctor-to-daredevil ratio in the world!"

In all seriousness, a lot depends on how it was put away and stored. If it was just driven up and parked...well, you've got a lot to do.

If it were me I'd pull the plugs and dribble a little oil in there to sit for a bit. While it was sitting I'd replace the oil and filter and coolant AND DEFINITELY any old gasoline. If it's eleven year old gas and you try to start the car, it will almost certainly fark up the injectors (they're probably in bad shape anyway but let's not make things worse). I guess being thorough I'd probably pull the valve cover, pour a bit of fresh oil over the cams and followers.

Then I guess I'd try turning the engine over by hand, make sure it's free, then maybe use a starter switch to crank it a bit to get the oil up to pressure and circulating without it running.

I don't know...what else am I forgetting here guys?

-----
Tom
'79 TR7
'87 Alfa 75
'91 Alfa Spider

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 16 Feb 2011 06:30

Thanks for the pointers, the car was driven up and parked outside for all these years. It is kind of hard to hand crank it, unless I remove the hood and I am not sure if that is smart to do, because it may be difficult to put it back in place.

I am thinking to cut the air compress belt, and eliminate the torq factor from the AC comps when I hand crank it.

Jolyon39 · Postby **Jolyon39** » 16 Feb 2011 06:37

Welcome JEDKWOK

Everyone here is keen to help new people and we look forward to you posting photo's of your car.

You are lucky to have Fuel Injection in your TR7, this was a late enhancement and people here seek second hand EFI systems from wrecks so that they can upgrade their cars.

Jolyon

John Clancy · Postby **John Clancy** » 16 Feb 2011 07:15

The TR7 is always hard to turn over by hand unless you take the spark plugs out, then you can manage it fairly easily.

I don't agree that fuel injection is better than carburettors, particularly as your car hasn't been run for many years. Changing the petrol is going to be more cumbersome than a carb car because the fuel is under pressure. If it was a carb car it would be a fairly easy process to drain the tank or even run it off a jerry can to get the car running - but not possible with fuel injection.

But stick with it because ultimately the drive will be worth it. Modern cars just can't match the feel of a well sorted TR7 on a winding, country road.

<center>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</center>

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 16 Feb 2011 16:11

FI was standard on the later 1980 California cars (to meet emissions)and optional on Federal cars for $465 and standard on 1981 cars. It's the only way to go. No choke problems and always runs at 14 to 1 air fuel ratio thanks to the oxygen sensor feedback (which some BMW models didn't have). It's the same Bosch systems used on all the high end cars back in the day (Audi, Mercedes, Saab, BMW etc.) and is very reliable. That being said drain and change fuel as the old gas turns to varnish and can plug the injectors. Before disconnecting the gas lines you have to disconnect the fuel pump wires and turn it over a few times to lower the fuel pressure as the gas under 34 lbs. pressure. The optional way is to activate the inertia switch and crank it over (fuel pump won't activate) but for some reason that way makes me feel uneasy). Fuel pump and filter are behind the silver shield/guard in the picture below.

As far as starting the car, as mentioned put a little oil in the cylinders with the spark plugs out and turn it over a few times to make sure the cylinders are lubed and with fresh gas give it a try. If it starts I would put some injector cleaner in the tank to help clean them out. You might want to change the fuel filter at some point here as you don'r know when it was last changed or what the old fuel may have done to it. They're about $30 I think but are good for something like 30,000 miles. My A/C belt was off as the freon had long since leaked out and still is today although someday I may get it working again and put a belt back on.

The battery tray is narrow and you don't need much of a battery to crank it over. Take the dimensions into auto parts store and they can find a match on their charts by physical size. These narrow batteries tend to be taller so you want to watch the height so it doesn't hit the hood when it's closed. Amperage isn't a problem as anything you find will be enough. My battery that was in the car when I bought it (2006) is narrower than the tray and fairly high but obviously doesn't hit the hood although it looks close.

My Spider was stored from 1999 to 2006 and with new oil, filter, spark plugs, wires and distributor rotor and cap it drove 1,000 miles back to Canada (from Sacramento) with no problems.

With the above done and it doesn't start, well we'll deal with that bridge if we have to cross it on another post.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 20 Feb 2011 15:31

Thanks all for the great advises. My engine looks just like FI Spyder's posted pictures.

Ok! I have top off the oil with 5w-30 and use a car battery and try to turn it over. Spark plugs were removed, and little oil was added to each cylinder. Just tapped the key, and she turn-over. What are great relieve! However, didn't go through and drain the gas and remove the gas pump wire to disable it. That will be the next step I'll take to drain the gas tank. By turning it over couple time, hope I have not create problem for the jets. I think the gas tank is empty, because the fuel lights came on.

Will post pictures when I get a data cable to up link from the camera.

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 20 Feb 2011 15:34

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thanks for the pictures.

john · Postby **john** » 20 Feb 2011 15:48

all thats left to say at this point is welcome and good luck [:)]

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry :-(

John

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 20 Feb 2011 17:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by iedkwok

I think the gas tank is empty, because the fuel lights came on.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That is more bad than good. An empty tank promotes condensation as temp goes up and down unless you're in a very dry location (read Death Valley) or it's been stored in a heated garage (with dehumidifier). The FI fuel tank is a unique two hole tank (one for sender and the other for fuel in and out hoses). I believe they are not available although you see them listed at some parts suppliers). I think a production run was done but it ran out. Therefore treat your gas tank like it's gold (wish it was, it wouldn't rust.[:)]) After getting that car started proceed to dropping the tank and give it the POR-15 gas tank sealing treatment. Not cheap but better than using other systems that are and don't work (long term). It includes two detergent flushes to remove varnish (old gas residue), Metalready to get rid of any rust and etch the tank, sealer which is like liquid solder (in look and consistency) to seal it from any rust in future. In my case the sealer had failed and I had to remove it first with POR-15 Stripper (and roofing nails) which took 6 weeks, the rest was a peace of pie. (mixed metaphors).

One caveat is the sealer must be fully drained to cure properly and the access holes are not the low point in the tank so a bung must be welded in at a low point. Mine already had that done when the (failed) sealer was put in. [:)][:(]

Here's the link to slide show of what I did.

http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o131/Spit999/TR7/Sealing%20Gas%20Tank/?albumview=slideshow

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

McLarenf1l · Postby **McLarenf1l** » 24 Feb 2011 01:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder

[quote]Originally posted by iedkwok

I think the gas tank is empty, because the fuel lights came on.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That is more bad than good. An empty tank promotes condensation as temp goes up and down unless you're in a very dry location (read Death Valley) or it's been stored in a heated garage (with dehumidifier). The FI fuel tank is a unique two hole tank (one for sender and the other for fuel in and out hoses). I believe they are not available although you see them listed at some parts suppliers). I think a production run was done but it ran out. Therefore treat your gas tank like it's gold (wish it was, it wouldn't rust.[:)]) After getting that car started proceed to dropping the tank and give it the POR-15 gas tank sealing treatment. Not cheap but better than using other systems that are and don't work (long term). It includes two detergent flushes to remove varnish (old gas residue), Metalready to get rid of any rust and etch the tank, sealer which is like liquid solder (in look and consistency) to seal it from any rust in future. In my case the sealer had failed and I had to remove it first with POR-15 Stripper (and roofing nails) which took 6 weeks, the rest was a peace of pie. (mixed metaphors).

One caveat is the sealer must be fully drained to cure properly and the access holes are not the low point in the tank so a bung must be welded in at a low point. Mine already had that done when the (failed) sealer was put in. [:)][:(]

Here's the link to slide show of what I did.

http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o131/Spit999/TR7/Sealing%20Gas%20Tank/?albumview=slideshow

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That is a fantastic write up. Not sure if this forum uses "archives" but this would certainly qualify is so. Very clean and precise. Probably will be using this in the near future.

My email: mclarenf1l@gmail.com
Zip code for reference: 48182

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 24 Feb 2011 07:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by FI Spyder

[quote]Originally posted by iedkwok

IPOR-15 gas tank sealing treatment.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

TPOR-15 gas tank sealing treatment
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Where can I buy POR-15?, My plan is to buy a fuel pump from the junk yard, and hook it up to a battery to drain the gas tank. hook it up to the outlet on the current fuel pump and bypass the current fuel pump. Wish I know someone with a camera that I can put it down the tank to see inside.

staningrimsby · Postby **staningrimsby** » 24 Feb 2011 08:03

Hi iedkwok,

I may have missed it but i am not really sure were abouts in the world you are, here is a link to a UK website that sells it along with a lot of other handy stuff for restoring cars;

http://www.frost.co.uk/result_search.asp

1980 2.0 DHC (soon to be 16v) - Polly.

FI Spyder · Postby **FI Spyder** » 24 Feb 2011 15:04

Your profile doesn't say if your in N/A or UK or other. In N/A you can get POR-15 products at almost any auto parts dealer I would imagine. I get mine from local independent auto parts dealer in a small community.
If you're in UK it may be a little harder to scource but is available world wide.

Home page is:

http://www.por15.com/

As for draining the tank you can drain the tank by gravity by disconnecting the inlet hose at fuel pump and drain it into container. That will lower it to a level where you can disconnect the lines at the tank end and siphon out the balance. There is always a little gas in the lines that will trickle out as well as some left in tank but it can be removed with that little left as it won't weigh much. If you are going to do the POR-15 sealing you must get the bung welded in to properly drain the sealer as it will not cure properly if it is too thick.

A tip for all as I mentioned before is to ask your local auto parts dealer to set up a cash discount account for you. It's something I never considered until a guy I worked with (he was restoring a Valiant convertible, took him twelve years) said he had an account set up and so I asked and I got. If you don't ask you don't get. Something a local auto parts dealer will do for you easier than a chain will. Check to see if your local car club has a discount with the local parts dealer. It may pay for your club fees with your first order in some cases.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

iedkwok · Postby **iedkwok** » 24 Feb 2011 15:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by staningrimsby

Hi iedkwok,

I may have missed it but i am not really sure were abouts in the world you are, here is a link to a UK website that sells it along with a lot of other handy stuff for restoring cars;

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sorry for not updating the profile, I am in San Diego, California, USA.

Anonymous

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