tr7triumph.com

greetings & happy new year to all! I need to replace my front shocks; already have everything out of car (new years eve project![:D]) how does one get the castellated nut out of top of axle tube- spanner available anywhere, or knock 'em out with brass punch & hammer? haynes destruction manual refers to a tool number "rtr-359, which likely translates to unavailable/nonexistent in this part of the world. I don't want to use a pipe wrench & tear 'em up. how much grief should I anticipate? (yes, I tried the search function; to no avail...) [:(] all advice appreciated- thanks!

If you are reffering to the large "nut" that holds the cartridge in I have used a large adjustable wrench or a large pipe wrench in the past. The new shocks usually have replacement "Nuts" supplied.

If you are reffering to the lock nut at the top of the strut shaft, visable under the rubber cap on the top of the strut mounting tower in the engine compartment I use an air wrench. I tried holding the cup washer that has the slots but it just spun as the flat section was already rounded out.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

To remove the OEM "slotted nut" that holds the cartridge in the strut I placed the strut in a vice and used a punch and hammer. It took some time and I suggest a liberal spray of penetrating oil prior to attempting this if it seems rusted in.

To remove the nut at the strut top (NY112041) first fit some spring compressors to the lower portion of the spring and then use a plumbers wrench to grip the strut shaft under the upper spring pan. This will stop the shaft rotating as you loosen the nut and ensure that the pan and other rotating parts don't fly apart when the nut is removed. This assumes you are replacing the strut insert - which is recommended. You'll find most of the replacement struts have a flat on the top nut thread so that you don't need to use the plumbers wrench in future.

Similarly, all of the replacement struts I have seen have come with seating nut that has a hex head so that you don't need to use a punch and hammer as described in the first para.

Note that there is a punched dimple in the side at the top of the tube to lock the cartridge nut in. This can be drilled out to make unscrewing easier (3mm IIRC).

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by saabfast</i>

Note that there is a punched dimple in the side at the top of the tube to lock the cartridge nut in. This can be drilled out to make unscrewing easier (3mm IIRC).
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I used a pipe wrench for this (not having read about the dimple at that time) and with a few raps of a hammer to initially shock it loose, it came free. Mind you there was no rust, just like new except for the fact there was zero shock action.[:0]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

I have had some luck in the past undoing the big nut by first soaking in WD40 for a few days, then turning the strutt upside down and holding the nut in my big vice - then turn the leg with a big set of stilsons.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

Mine were seized solid, I ended up hacksawing two parrallel flat edges on either side to fit my largest spanner & then held the tube in a vice. It worked a treat,it doesn't matter if you knacker them because you should get new ones with your new inserts.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

cool beans! I'd heard about that dimple but have yet to find it. once I got these off the car, I found where that horrendous knocking in the front end came from- there's about 3/8" of rod free travel- like the damper's almost detached inside. I can't wait to drive this thing with the new BRG paint, new shocks that don't clunk & rattle about, gone-thru motor, & a sun-roof I can open & close without the damn thing flying off the car & landing in the road![:0] but wait I must- project commenced on new year's eve...[^]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by catmanboo</i>

cool beans! ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
And I didn't even post anything on this thread [:D]

Have to agree though, never seen this dimple on any of the rather many front struts I have seen over th eyears.
I only once had problems with fitting (Koni) inserts, and it was caused by the spotweld for the brake line bracket.
It had deformed the strut slightly making fitting (and removing years later) of the front insert rather difficult.

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1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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