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While troubleshooting some headlamp problems, I discovered that my fuse panel is cracked, and some very bizzare things happen when you dink around with it. I can't find anything useful in the sevice manual about replacing it. Can anyone provide any direction? Is it pulled out through the glove box, or does the dash need to come out? It looks like there are two tabs on each side...does it pop out of the assembly?

Also, these panels do not seem to be available (at least not for late model North American cars). Woild anyone happen to have a spare, or is there an aftermarket option that won't be too complicated to swap in?





1980 TR7 DHC

blah post restored:
Had the same problem and think the cracking was caused by POs using 1&1/4" (~32mm) length fuses, instead of the correct length of 1&5/32"(~29mm).

Unfortunately, the [url="http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ProductImages/XLarge/GRID006248.gif"]main harness[/url] is crimped directly to the fuse box.




To remove the fuse box requires removal of the dash, disconnection of the auxillary harnesses, front lights and horns, etc. Quite a big job (which I have done recently).

Something to consider if your existing harness is good and it's only the fuse box that needs replacing is to cut it from the harness and crimp some plug connectors to the main harness and corresponding sockets to the new fusebox - there are approx. 34 wires that need connection. If you are doing this then you could change the fuse box to modern blade type fuses.

Here is a label I created for the back of the fuse box cover - it gives the wiring pin outs for the harness.


The above wiring schema is recorded from an Australian delivered 1978 Speke built TR7.

Why is this familiar?

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

You can get a modern fuse panel from British Wiring (in the States). If you want to stay original I picked up a good used one from Robsport...or was it S&S. I did that because I have a doggey cracked fuse holder and it will have to be done at some point.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

I have a spare fuse panel if you are intereted not sure how much the shipping would be from UK though,whereabouts in the States are you?
Cheers
Moe

Thanks Moe. I am near Chicago in Wheaton, Illinois (zip code 61087). I might do a little more research on a modern replacement before I decide what to do. If I can find a modern alternative that is not too expensive or complicated, that night be the way to go...

1980 TR7 DHC

Hi I would also be interested in the modern replacment fuse panel as I am not a contortionist and getting to the fuses is a right pain in the a*** [;)]So please let us know your findings.
Cheers
Moe

A 12 blade fuse box can be bought for less than the cost of a main dish at most restaurants, such as [url="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-lucar-terminals-/120602095635?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1471f013"]this item from ebay UK[/url] or [url="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FUSE-BOX-BLADE-12-WAY-PREWIRED-54426-/360319283119?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e4b3efaf"]this item from here in the antipoides[/url].
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Mounting it in front of the near side front turret would seem to be the go. Moving all the relays out there too would eliminate the need for the odd contortionist performance.

Stag76 seems to be ahead of us in this regard (Bruce, hope you don't mind your pics being used for illustrative purposes):

Nope
- that front left corner is where all the power steering and air conditioning parts sit in cars so equipped...