Anonymous

Interior Fan Wiring

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
Post Reply
jbsjim
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 454
Joined: 16 Sep 2008 22:19
Location: USA
Contact:

Interior Fan Wiring

Postby jbsjim » 17 Sep 2010 17:21

I'm trying to get my interior fan to work (any speed will do). I've studied the wiring diagram for the 1980 FI TR7 (North American model) and found that there is supposed to be a ground in the system which I can't see. On the diagram it's portrayed as being right next to the on/off - speed control in the lower center of the dash. Can anyone tell me where the ground starts and stops? It's hard to see looking through the radio opening. Do I need to take the lower portion of the dash off (the part that holds the radio) to do work in there?
Thanks
Jim

Image[IMG]

Marsu
Swagester
Posts: 570
Joined: 03 Oct 2009 20:57
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Marsu » 17 Sep 2010 19:25

Jim, yes, you need to remove the console cover, but first remove the gear stick cover.
Image
(You don't need to remove the upper dash as was done in the above picture.)

I think the ground comes from the back of the fan switch and ends being screwed to the metal bracket that crosses over the trans tunnel at the base of the console. My recollection is that it is the one on the right and there is another on the left, but I can't recall what the LH one is for.
Image

Beans
TRemendous
Posts: 7795
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 19:29
Location: Netherlands
Contact:

Postby Beans » 17 Sep 2010 23:42

There is (or should be) an earth connetion on the switch itself ...

Image

Just visible to the left and slightly above the two lower connectors
(forget the red oval, piccie is from my weblog)

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Hasbeen
TRemendous
Posts: 6474
Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:32
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby Hasbeen » 17 Sep 2010 23:52

Jim, before you pull everything apart, check your fuses.

I find my ventilation fans stop working about every 14 to 18 months. Every time it is the fuse.

It is not blown, & both the fuse, & the holder look clean & in perfect condition, they just don't pass current. I don't know if the other fuses would develop the same fault, as I clean them all when this happens.

Just removing the fuses, & cleaning them, & the folder with spray contact cleaner gets it working again, at least for another year or so.

Worth a try, before the spanners come out.

Hasbeen

john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby john 215 » 18 Sep 2010 12:18

Hi Jim,

If you need to remove the dash for further investigation, then check the resistor pack that gives you different speeds, this sits in the top of the heater box and i have seen these give problems.

Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
Image
1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

DNK
TRemendous
Posts: 2711
Joined: 16 Sep 2007 03:49
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby DNK » 18 Sep 2010 16:09

First of all thanks for this thread. Now I know what it looks like under there.

Second thing, a little off topic, but still air related. How does air get to the side vents and what settings, if at all ,do I need to have to get air thru there.

Don
"No More Cars For You"
71 TR6- Perpetual remodel
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

bottomtop
Rust Hunter
Posts: 247
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 01:08
Location: Australia
Contact:

Postby bottomtop » 19 Sep 2010 22:52

I think the flow to the side vents is "always on". To release that flow, you move the dials underneath each one. They blow a bit harder when the centre vent flap is closed.

jbsjim
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 454
Joined: 16 Sep 2008 22:19
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby jbsjim » 21 Sep 2010 18:57

Victory! Well some anyway. Got serious with my multi meter and found 2 grounds in there - one that looks like the one in Beans picture. Plugged them in and had good grounds but no go on the fan. Upon further testing - no power either. I pulled off the fake speaker cover on top of the dash and after rummaging around found that the green wire that leads to the fan was cut right at the edge of the harness. If I hadn't moved wires around I would never have seen it - the wires lined up perfectly and all looked correct. I found some proper gage green wire and replaced the short run down to the motor and - joy of joys - she works! Well one speed anyway. right now she will work on the number 3 setting only. I need to investigate further on this but it's great to savor a win!

Thanks for all of the great input! Hasbeen I replaced all of the fuses earlier and cleaned each of the fuse holders - it made the door lights work for once.

I'm curious about a subharness I found in there with 2 black and 2 red/white wires with a female plug end. It's just sitting in there unused.

Thanks again,
Jim

tr7sprint1
Swagester
Posts: 528
Joined: 18 Nov 2006 12:45
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby tr7sprint1 » 21 Sep 2010 19:16

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
I'm curious about a subharness I found in there with 2 black and 2 red/white wires with a female plug end. It's just sitting in there unused.

Thanks again,
Jim
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I believe those are for lighting the gear selection console if you had a automatic transmission.





<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>

jbsjim
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 454
Joined: 16 Sep 2008 22:19
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby jbsjim » 21 Sep 2010 19:24

That makes sense - thanks!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 267 guests

cron