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Front Hub Bearings

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REPLIC8
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Front Hub Bearings

Postby REPLIC8 » 25 Jul 2010 07:15

When I refit the front suspension I'll be renewing the hub bearings. According to my workshop manual you tighten the bearings to 5lbf ft & then back off one flat on the nut. However my torque wrench only goes down to 10 lbf ft. I've seen some that go down to 5 but they're very expensive. Is there I DIY way of setting these bearings? How does everyone else do it? I can't imagine you've all got 5lb wrenches.

Andy
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Marko
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Postby Marko » 25 Jul 2010 09:30

don't worry. You can just do it "by the ear". Torque wrenches aren't that accurate at the max or min setting. Especially if not calibrated or miss used, or just old.

just tighten the bearing until there is no axial or radial free-play, and unscrew it a quarter turn. The thing is , if you tighten the bearing too much there wont be room for it to expand when it heats up ( long highway run) , if its too loose, you will feel it on your steering wheel in the first corner you take.

It's not like there will be a massive failure ( wheel coming off) if you dont tighten them correctly the first time. You can tighten them "by the ear" , drive around the block to see how it feels ,and do it again if wrong.

trv8
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Postby trv8 » 25 Jul 2010 15:09

That's how I done mine.
Tighten up untill no free-play then slacken off a little.
Go for a drive and recheck.
If too much play, just nip the nut back up a little bit.
You only need a very small amount of play (hardly anything).

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 25 Jul 2010 16:11

I tighten them a little (by feel) while spinning the wheel then back off to next flat where pin will fit in hole. Never had a problem.

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Dave Dyer
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Postby Dave Dyer » 25 Jul 2010 16:28

I've done mine like that in the past, took it for an MOT and its failed on too much play in the front wheel bearings!![:0] I explained the reason why but it made no difference, so I had to tighten it to remove the play, get it through the MOT and then re-adjust it afterwards!!!

Dave

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Postby Rblackadar » 31 Jul 2010 23:17

So does the flat mean one side of the hex nut or one notch on that crown cap that goes on top of the nut?????If it's just a side on the hexnut that means I turn it back 1/6th of a turn. Correct? I just repacked my bearings and I was curious what the heck that meant (first bearing repack job ever for me). I want to make sure I dont screw this up. It baffles me that less than 5 FT/LBS keeps the wheel on ((shudder))[:0]

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 31 Jul 2010 23:27

Don't worry, there is no way it will fall off as long as it has a split pin fitted. Just "nip" it up like Marko says and it will be good. Spin the disc as you are doing it and you wil feel it tighten up at which point just back off to the next free place to get the split pin lined up and you are done. Its most important they are not too tight but it will be obvious if they are loose because you will be able to feel the free play when you wobble the wheel.

Russ

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Rblackadar
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Postby Rblackadar » 01 Aug 2010 00:19

OK I tightened it up to 5ft/lbs. now i just turn it back a little....I have 2 holes in my spindle..which one do I use? I imagine either so it can be adjustable I'm assuming..

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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 01 Aug 2010 00:32

Use the first hole that fits after you have gone back the 1 flat. That is AFTER so if it needs another 1/2 flat then do that rather than tightening. If you know what I mean. It is better to have some play than being too tight. Them rollers have to be free to roll.

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