Running in

[Bobbieslandy]

Hi,

I'm running in my engine and once she's hot i'm getting about 17psi oil pressure at idle. I am using a 30w monograde running in oil which seems to have the consistancy of water! As soon i get on the move and the revs are above 2000rpm the pressure climbs to around 45psi, the same as when the oil's cold. does this sound right?

Also, as far as running in goes i've not exceeded 3000rpm (although the temptation is overwhelming, especially with that exhaust!) and have not used wide throttle openeings. Is there any other tips or info i should know? I've only covered about 10 miles today, only 490 to go!

Many thanks,

Rob.

[FI Spyder]

Remeber your comparing 30 weight oil when warm to what is equivalent of 50 weight compared to regular oil so pressure should be down compared to normal oil. The only break-in tip I would mention is not to keep a steady rpm but vary it every few minutes (ie when you're driving down a highway as opposed to city driving where you are constantly varying rpm anyways.)


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[gaz]

I ran like yourself upto 3000rpm for the first 500miles then upto 4000rpms with the odd quick blast for the next 500miles oil change at both stages with 20/50 (coma classic) and then let it rip.

I then discovered there wasn't a great deal left after 4000rpm until i had the bal needles in and the carbs set up yesterday its like driving another car whoohoo.........[:D]

I also kept up with a saab 3.0 tdi on the twisty lanes and short straights the other night and then laughed at him when he tried too outrun a scooby [:D]

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

[Bobbieslandy]

30W oil is a bit of a mystery to me, i've never used it before and wasn't sure what to expect. As long as everything sounds fine then i'm cool with it!

I'm not sure what needles i have fitted, i'll be setting the carbs up at the weekend so will have a look then, i've got a gas tester, and have borrowed a colourtune and carb balancer so should give me a heads up on whats going on. Do they have the needle type stamped on them?

I'm so far surprised with the low down performance of the sprint engine, i was expecting it to be a nightmare keeping under 3000rpm with over 2kgs shaved off the flywheel but all in all i'm pleasently surprised.

Keeping up with a "modern" 3.0 diesel is quite an achievement and if the Saab oil burner is anything like my 330d then keeping up with a scooby is very do-able. Throwing nearly 1700kgs of diesel estate around the country lanes can get a bit scary though. I find the quicker petrols tend to slow up quite a bit over 140mph[:D]

[PeterTR7V8]

Many people say the 16V 2.0L motor is almost as quick as the 3.5L RV8.



The map: http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548

[Bobbieslandy]

I'll let you know once it's run in[:D]

[Hasbeen]

Rob, my Leyland book says 15W40 if the temp goes down to -10C, &
20W50if it only gets down to 0deg C.

I use 30W70 which was recomended by our local Triumph expert. We do
get below zero C a couple of times a year, but rarely do not get
above 20 C during the day.

These multigrades are so good today, I think they are best for high
clearance engines like ours.

Hasbeen

[Beans]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>

... Many people say the 16V 2.0L motor is almost as quick as the 3.5L RV8 ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
And sometimes it's even quicker [:p]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[Beans]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Bobbieslandy</i>

... Do they have the needle type stamped on them? ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[Bobbieslandy]

I've got 20/50w to go in and a new filter once i've covered the magic 500 miles. I've been having a read on "running in" on the search forum, i couldnt' believe how divided some of the opinions are! Towards the end i was wondering if i was doing more harm than good by running that 30w oil. i read the thread about old engines with white metal bearings being less than perfect and it was absolutely necessary to run them in before giving them the beans. Mine is very modern in comparison. run in on 20/50w and change for the same at 500 miles?....... rather get this right, you don't get a second chance at running an engine in! Well technically you do but you know what i mean[:)]

Rob

[RadioGuy]

This is just me but, 17psi at idle seems a LOT low for a fresh engine. I think at least 35-40psi would be good and 45-60 at 3000 rpm . I would be worried at 30psi.

Just my 2c worth.

Ken


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

[Bobbieslandy]

Hi Ken,

Yes, it worries me too! the oil pressure only drops to 17 maybe 19psi after the engine has been idling for 15mins or so. for the initial start up and for the next 10mins it's at about 35psi. when the oil is hot it's registering 17 - 19psi at around 900rpm. Raising that to around 1100rpm it climbs straight up to 40psi. the temptation to ditch the 30w and put in some fresh 20/50w is getting stronger, the trouble is i'm not basing that on any facts, just my gut feeling. I honestly think it's down to this oil being so thin. I hope!

Has anyone heard of the rule of thumb where a modern plain bearing engine only needs 10psi per 1000rpm? this is just some info i've picked up on the net, the lowest figure was 7psi per 1000rpm!!! again, these are not facts, they are from the internet[:p]

Rob.

[Beans]

Ken, you are right here.
But considering Rob is using 30W monograde, the pressure will be considerably lower.

I always use a cheap 20W50 oil to run in the engine, change oil at 500 and 1500 km.
After that I put decent oil in the engine.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[Bobbieslandy]

I'm going to ditch the 30w oil, i just don't like it being in there.

Rob.

[Bobbieslandy]

I went for a drive last night and when i parked up there was oil seeping from the waterpump tell-tale. It also looks like it's been seeping from the head gasket to. I guess this explains the lack of oil pressure! there goes my relaxing weekend. I didn't get round to changing the oil, i think that may of been a good thing as it would of been a waste of time. The car must be punishing me for all the time spent locked up[B)]