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How can I use the 5 stud hubs from an SD1 without using the SD1 Strut assembly?

I spoke with a certifying engineer about the cut and sleeve method of ustilising the 2 struts to maintain tower mounting points and using the 5 stud stub axle(Bennders idea some moons ago). He was fine with the idea but requires that a test one be made for a destruction test, at $1000 per destruction, which may require up to 3 tests so at up to $3000 and a scarce supply of TR & SD1 struts, this, is not an option.

I am using the SD1 brake calipers and would like to use the SD1 rotors and/or hubs.

I haven't seen much in the way of adaptors - and I don't know whether the engineer would like it much.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Cheers
Jez

11/80 Inca Yellow TR7

I have seen TR7's which were using the complete SD1 front strut assembly.
No idea what needs altering though ...

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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Jez mate I doubt any official busy body in this country would know what is standard for our cars so I bet you could show up to a road worthy inspection with you modified struts and 5 stud wheels and nobody would know the difference. I'd just do it and not let on to anyone, what they don't know wont hurt them! [:D]</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

The Triumph 2000, 2.5 saloon and the Stag have a similar if not identical strut.

These struts have a bolt in stub axle. You could have a suitable stub machined up to fit the SD1 hub (or any other for that matter). This would be an easy bolt in conversion.

I have no idea about the calliper match up and the top mount into the TR7, I have always thought to use the bottom of one of these coupled with the tube from a TR7 strut.

Just a distant project for me but perhaps you may consider it. I was going to add a Nissan hub to the front to match the Nissan R31 rear end that Hasbeen has installed. Lots of other wrk to do first though.

Jolyon

One bloke here machines the spring pad off SD1 struts, then welds
another on in the right place for 7 springs

Hasbeen

My car uses the SD1 struts and hubs and in actual fact the modification needed is not that drastic. Hasbeen is spot on with what he says above. All it requires is machining off the spring seat from the SD1 fitment and fabricating one identical to the standard TR7 one and thats pretty much it. Further modification is required with the strut top. Basically you need the metal type SD1 strut top with the bearing in it ( not the later type rubber one) and you machine the extra lip off it so it can be used with the standard TR7 spring pan (otherwise it doesn't fit inside it nor rotate freely).

The best person to ask for the modified strut top is S&S Preparations because they recently recreated Grinnalls fabrication methods to help me out with a new set for mine so they know whats needed now.

Might be able to send pics if required.

Its a handy modification to have becuase there are a much larger range of wheels to choose from plus you can further upgrade your brakes to XJS calipers as I am about to do.

The one disclaimer I would add is that my car also runs and SD1 power steering rack and a complete SD1 rear axle which I feel has something to do with the increased track width you will get from the conversion.

<b>Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>