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I am putting the interior back in the car at the moment. One thing I wanted to improve was the operation of the Screen/Car heater flap setting.

The lever would not go fully down to the car position. Yesterday I tried to adjust the lever setting to get full movement of the lever, but what I found was that the movement of the flap is less than the movement of the lever and trying to get the lever fully down meant that the rod came out of the clamp.

It seems like the actual flap does not have the same amount of movement as the lever so I would never be able to get full movement of the lever. Plus I can hear the flap hitting the stop for the car position but there is not enough rod for the lever to go fully to the car position

Is this normal or is there something else for me to look at?


Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)

Hi,

Did your interior rebuild include taking the dashboard out? It's easier to adjust the rods on the heater flaps when you can see them.





Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Thanks Adam,

No the dash was not removed, the centre console was. The problem was that the rod was not long enough to allow the lever to go fully down, when I tried it came out of the clamp.

Does you first photo show the screen car rods? if so which is which?

Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)

Pete, those levers are just a push on fitting, & do fall off the
shaft, on some cars. The one on my current 7 has fallen off at
least 5 times in 8 years.

However, they are very hard to get off, when you want them off, in
the car. I do not have a suitable puller, that I could get in to
the thing with.

My guess is that yours has fallen off, at some time, & been
refitted, at the wrong angle by someone. The first time I refitted
mine, I got it wrong, as the flap, or the lever, moved, after I set
it, while I was climbing back into the foot well.

Don't spend too much time in the foot well.

Hasbeen

All the instructions are in the tr7man.pdf on my download site.

Clay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

Hi Pete,

From what you're saying it's the far right control rod / lever that's causing your problem.



My previous heater pictures show the unit upside down, the heater pipes pass through the engine bulkhead. Therefore the lever / rod that you're concerned with is the longest one in my lower heater picture.

Hasbeen is spot on about the control levers being a push fit together. They can become loose causing a lot of slop and lost movement. If you remove the plastic trim away from the centre console the levers and metal frame will be exposed. You may have to remove all the centre trim from the gearstick surround to the rear bulkhead to do this. (My upside down picture shows the heater the correct way up but at different angle than seen in the car)

You want the assembly on the r/h side that operates the fan speed and screen / car vent levers. Tapping this "metal shaft" on both sides simultaneously with something small and heavy will tighten both r/h levers up and remove the play. I used a small hammer on the right and tapped it against a small lump of steel on the left. You don't need to hit it with much force. Try to get the white plastic and metal pieces at the top end of the rod engaging properly and in the correct positions before doing this.

Hope this helps,

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

... Don't spend too much time in the foot well ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Why not, keeps you lithe [:p]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Thanks Adam,

The centre console and gear stick surround are out of the car.

The rod I was adjusting was the short one, this seemed to be the only one linked to the lever. Sounds like there are more things to look at, will have to look again next weekend.

Thanks Jclay and Hasbeen as well.

Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)

Managed to get down to the car this afternoon, will spend the weekend on it.

I managed to fix the problem with the lever, took about 1/2 hr thanks to the photographs from Adam.

The lever actually operates the shorter rod which controls the flap that switches from car to screen for the airflow direction. I examined the flap and it was reaching maximum movement before the lever. Thats when I saw the problem.

A PO has done some work, the flap directs air from the back of the heater onto some ducting which sends the hot air into the footwells, at least it does if correctly fitted. My duct was the wrong way round and the flap was fouling on the back of the duct preventing it from opening fully. This also meant that the air was not being directed anywhere in particular.

I reversed the duct and hey presto the flap opened fully and air was directed into the footwell. I think this accounts why I felt the car heating was inadequate when I last drove the car in november 2008.

The detent on the lever control are poor but something I can live with.

With this done I can move onto completing the electric window installation which is looking good, refitting the interior, fininshing the paintwork and an MOT. May be complete by the end of June more likely the end of July.

But with the Spitfire taxed to the end of September and nearing the 200000 mile mark I am tempted to run her to the end of September, after that I will be close to have done 100000 miles on her int he 11 years I have had her.

Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)