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Over the holiday weekend I plan to debug the tail/signal/running lights on the '80 DHC.
Currently only the brake lights work and they are dim; on the brink of being dangerously dim. Hey, we don't have MOT's here we just get fast driving awards.[:0]

After studying the wiring diagram I feel the problem is within the hazard switch, but that's not my question, I can fix the wiring/switch/contact/flasher problem.(they were working intermittently a while ago)

The problem is the brightness of the tail lights in general. They don't look that dirty and I have not looked at the reflectors yet. I will measure the voltage at the bulb sockets when I get power to them, that might be the problem. If not, if the sockets are getting the required voltage, has anyone succeeded in finding bulbs that are brighter than normal?

I know that within the last 2 years some LED's have came out that will just about blind you and I have a few thousand at work but if there is an off the shelf replacement that would work I would try that first. The problem with the ones I have at work is they generate a huge amount of heat and require a heat sink also like most LED's they project light predominantly in only one direction and not omnidirectional like filament bulbs. I don't want to build an array of LED's on a PWB the same shape of the tail light sections...Hummm, wonder if that would sell....( I got dibs on the idea ! you heard it here first It's published now !!!)[8D]

Anybody tackled this issue? Suggestions? Or am I asking too much of a 30 year old classic?


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

When I had my rear lights apart I found that the reflective surface on the assembly had deteriorated. A fresh coat of silver paint only helps so much. I have seen LED clusters marketed for MGBs and they looked to be very effective.
If I recall someone on the board was working at fabricating LED clusters for his car. No idea if he was successful.
I understand that resistance is required to make an LED cluster work.
Apparently 12v LEDs are available cheap on E-Bay and doubtless from other sources and I wouldn't mind making up my own boards (I could do with some soldering practice) but don't know enough about electronics to develop the concept. It would br nice if someone who knows what they are doing could post what is required.

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Any resistance in the circuit will make the light bulbs less bright.
This means cleaning all contacts, the part of the wire that contacts the bulb and the part of the bulb that contacts the wire. All grounds must be clean as well. This can mean the socket and whatever gounds the socket to the body. After 30 years there is bound to by white corrosion etc. Any the circuit goes through the switches (main or hazard) the interior contacts must be clean as well as the contacts at the rear of switch and the contact block it connects to must be clean (no oxide). A thin coat of dielectric grease stops these contact points from reoxidizing. Systematically cleaning all these contact points will restore the lighting system to factory fresh lighting.... not as bright as a modern car but brighter than it is now for sure.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

A resistor is needed because LEDs operate at lower than 12V. For drop-in car LEDs, the resistor is built into the circuit to keep the LEDs from frying.

That being said, many of the drop-in LEDs aren't as bright as stock incandescents. They use less power, run cooler, and light quicker, but in terms of brightness they're not quite there so be careful. It can be tough to compare apples-to-apples based on spec since the light output characteristics are so different (LEDs for taillights are monochromatic and radiate mostly in one direction versus bulbs that are broadband and radiate 360-degrees).

If you do find some that are brighter than stock, please do post your results.

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Tom
'79 TR7
'87 Alfa 75
'91 Alfa Spider

You guys haven't been using the search function...

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver</i>


<b>If I recall someone on the board was working at fabricating LED clusters for his car. No idea if he was successful</b>.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<font color="teal"><b>As said by odd there is masses of info on the serch facility

I know it is a bit temperamental at times

(Big hint when you press serch and it comes up error press back page then press serch again)

As for above quote that was me and it works fantastic

see</b> </font id="teal">[url="http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10265&SearchTerms=LED"]<font color="red"><font size="4"><i><b> <u>HERE</u> </b> </i> </font id="size4"> </font id="red">[/url]




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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

Thanks guys.

Steve your conversion looks great, you put a lot of work into that one. It's been awhile since I looked at the tail light housing. I don't think I want to put that much work into it....yet. Maybe something that does not require laying glass and machine work.

Oh well I'll know more about it when I start looking at what I have to work with.

LOL ! I did use the search function and I didn't find an answer to my question , the parameters I put in were slightly different so Steve's thread did not show up. ( I've read too many other replies with the dreaded "YOU SHOULD HAVE USED THE SEARCH FUNCTION" lecture not to have looked for it before posting. ) [:)]

Thanks again.




Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

Thanks Rich, I'm afraid the reflector is probably going to be the problem from what I can see from the rear. I've been through the silver/chrome paint on the reflector route before on a 1969 cougar 428CJ convertible, I even tried aluminum foil...the foil did work better than the paint, I've just got to figure a better way to glue it to the plastic. Maybe some PSA and a trip in the autoclave...


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

<font color="teal"><b>As you see I used aluminum sticky backed foil on my reflector

And another tip put the plastic lens cover in the dishwasher

comes up great

BUT don't tell the wife...[;)]</b></font id="teal">

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

You can get 10 watt bulbs and use them in the tail lights instead of the standard 5 watt. I did this years ago and it is much better, and obviously very simple to do.




1980 Persian Aqua DHC

<font face="Impact">Thanks Steve</font id="Impact">




Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

Turn signals working now....Kinda.

Problem was the hazard switch was left unplugged after some work on the "broken" head light switch.

Now one side blinks as it should and the other doesn't blink. Making progress.[:)]




Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC

I would take a different approach and fit halogen bulbs. Very recommendable webshop with some interesting reading also: http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm

Two weeks ago!

http://www.litezupp.com/

LiteZupp....They look cool and high tech BUT, [B)]OUCH $60.00 a pair !!??

The halogen looks a lot better.[:)]



Thanks JClay


Maintained on Saturday…Drive on Fun-Day !!! 1976 FHC - 1980 DHC