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As for removing the points;
Remove the two springs carefully and remove the two retarding weights.
This will give you slightly more room.
If necessary turn the engine to give better access to the points.


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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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It can be done without removing the springs etc. From memory, after removing the rotor arm use a longish magnetic screwdriver and remove the large cheesehead bolt in the middle of the points (don't drop it). Pull the spade connectors out from behind the spring (where it seats against the plastic square on the side)and lift off the points. Replacing is the reverse but a bit trickier due to the space restriction. Adjusting is another challenge, trying to see when the heel of the points are on the cam and getting a very small feeler gauge in to check the gap. Some prefer to remove the dizzy, but that (and replacing it) is a challenge in itself.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

If you go to the trouble of removing the dizzy, buy a Lumenition kit & save yourself the grief of having to change the points in future.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">