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breaks again i give up

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Chunk
Swagester
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Postby Chunk » 02 Apr 2011 20:25

Or put a brake pipe clamp on the rear flexi pipe, if rubber and try brakes with engine running. The rear brake shoes are best adjusted manually as the auto adjusters are not brilliant. The shoes should be dragging slightly when turning drum when correctly adjusted.
BTW the new master cylinder is highly recommended as old ones are usually scored, or corroded down the bore.
Good luck.
It's old technology i'm affraid.

1979 TR7V8 FHC.
DJE 4.6 Block and Heads.
22 years of tinkering and tuning......So far!
Now available in red.

rocky_679
Wedge Pilot
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Postby rocky_679 » 07 Apr 2011 15:01

brakes are done an working tho i been told to drive her a while then adjust up the rear brakes n re bleed system now thats done on to exhaust removed the standard cast iron standard manifold no bolts broken in[:D] have undone the exhaust bolts n rubber mounts gettin the angle grinder out to make life esier an fitting 4 branch ss manifold with big bore exhaust system [:D]

stephen j dark

staningrimsby
TRiffic
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Postby staningrimsby » 07 Apr 2011 18:37

Really please to hear its all sorted for you Stephen, i does feel good when its all up and running doesn't it.[:D]

What was actually wrong with your brakes in the end then [?]

ImageImageImage

1980 2.0 16v DHC - Polly.

rocky_679
Wedge Pilot
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Postby rocky_679 » 07 Apr 2011 20:25

thank you all ur input was much appreciated[:)]

stephen j dark

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 08 Apr 2011 00:02

Rocky I am so pleased for you.

But come on mate, what fixed it?

Hasbeen

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