Heater

[kstrutt1]

rps20160131_143543_zpsx2wvnvmi.jpg (50.85 KiB) Viewed 5451 times

Feed from the manifold goes to the bottom, return to the water pump inlet goes to the top. this works very well on mine.

If you are having other random cooling issues check the de-gas line on top of the manifold, the little cover held on with 3 screws has tiny bled hole which blocks up, you then get an airlock behind the thermostat delaying i't opening.

[john 215]

Hi,

Try using a hose pipe to flush water through the matrix before stripping her down. IF it does need to come apart, not a terrible job in my experience, the first dozen were the worse ! If you do then ensure you have a pop rivet gun, rivets and a good memory !

Worth drilling a extra hole in the thermostat opposite the jiggle pin also. aids in bleeding the system.

Have you replaced the water pump over the last few years, a lot were made without a important drilling in them, a excellent article can be found here by my very good friend and poster on the original forum J Clay -

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Water_Pump.html


Cheers John

[alc59]

rps20160131_143543_zpsx2wvnvmi.jpg

Feed from the manifold goes to the bottom, return to the water pump inlet goes to the top. this works very well on mine.

If you are having other random cooling issues check the de-gas line on top of the manifold, the little cover held on with 3 screws has tiny bled hole which blocks up, you then get an airlock behind the thermostat delaying i't opening.

Interesting.
My feed and return are the other way, so I shall try swapping them over.
On mine the degas line goes straight from the carb pedestal to the expansion tank. Don't seem to have a little cover.
Thanks for the info.
Al

[kstrutt1]

I forgot I also have an 1/8" hole drilled in the top of the thermostat. On mine the degas comes from a cover screwed over the hole with 3 small screws around it just behind the thermostat.

[alc59]

I have an earlier SD1 manfold which doesn't have the hole and cover. Do you also vent from the pipe at the top of the carb pedestal?
Al

[TRJIMBO]

I rebuilt my heater box about 2 years ago with new uprated matrix etc. It took bloody ages drilling out rivets. I'm sure it was never meant to be user serviceable as some are simply impossible to get to without cutting/splitting the plastic housing.

Still from experience, all the internals will be rusty so its a good opportunity strip and paint all the flaps and grease the pivot points. My advice is to use 3mm closed cell foam so it doesn't hold water against the metal or disintegrate through your vents. Available on ebay with self adhesive backing. Also, use locktight on the splines that hold the control levers on so the controls don't collapse two weeks after you've reinstalled it.

I have replaced this box with an A/C unit now. I sold my rebuilt unit to Robsport. Maybe they've still got it.

[TRJIMBO]

PS another tip is to install a simple by-pass valve with an H piece under the bonnet. In the summer, you can turn it off and stop the hot coolant flowing through your matrix. The constant flow of coolant through the standard set up heats the cabin even with the flap setting on cold. More of an issue for the FHC which gets hot inside.

[kstrutt1]

I have an earlier SD1 manfold which doesn't have the hole and cover. Do you also vent from the pipe at the top of the carb pedestal?
Al

No it only has the one from behind the thermostat.

[FI Spyder]

i see the thermostat housing is horizontal like the FI 4 cylinder. Make sure the jiggle valve is at the top (that's where the air is). On a carbed 4 cylinder the thermostat is vertical so it doesn't matter where the jiggle valve is.