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bypassing heater matrix

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 May 2013 23:09

Nick I'm not talking about the temperature the gauge says the thing is running at, I'm talking about a dead spot in the water flow, generating a local hot spot.

May not be a problem in many climates, but to me, just not worth the risk, with the known vulnerability of our cylinder heads, & the hassle of fixing them.

Hasbeen

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 15 May 2013 00:47

What helps prevent heat from getting in the cabin are the flaps that close the openings, you have to be sure the rods are adjusted right. The other thing is the foam seals. This tends to deteriorate over time and may need to be replaced. The heater would have to come out. The foam on my heater was pretty deteriorated even though it's an A/C car and would have run cooler in the worst of it. Picture shows new foam glued to a flap.

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nick
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Postby nick » 15 May 2013 02:47

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

Nick I'm not talking about the temperature the gauge says the thing is running at, I'm talking about a dead spot in the water flow, generating a local hot spot.

May not be a problem in many climates, but to me, just not worth the risk, with the known vulnerability of our cylinder heads, & the hassle of fixing them.

Hasbeen
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hasbeen. I'm not arguing with which is the better way to plumb the cooling system. I'm just pointing out that the US cars are plumbed as the Victoria British catalog shows. At least my cars are It may not be the best way. But it's the way the factory did it.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 15 May 2013 05:26

Nick I can't recognize in that drawing what we have in Oz delivered cars, & they had the full US system, including ZS carbs, & all the pollution garbage. It was too much trouble to bother with something to suit the small Oz market, so we got the full rubbish.

I have had 3 full US spec, one Sprint & one UK spec, & all have had full constant flow of coolant through the ventilation system. Even the AC cars had full coolant flow through the system.

The air was shunted away from the hot matrix, not the hot water.

Troy I know what you are saying. Even with a ventilation system in mint condition, it was a real bugger in summer.

The first 10 minutes driving, after parking a hot car was purgatory. The whole system would be hot from heat sink, & it took that full 10 minutes to get the incoming air down to ambient. Ambient is bad enough when it has been running at 35C for days, but when it is heated as well, it was take another car territory.

This is why I bypassed the systems, & then spent more than most pay for a 7 fitting the air conditioning system from a US import.

Hasbeen

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Postby Stag76 » 15 May 2013 08:06

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Nick I'm not talking about the temperature the gauge says the thing is running at, I'm talking about a dead spot in the water flow, generating a local hot spot<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

What Phil says about the Hot-Spot at the back of the head is correct. If there is no water outlet at the back of the head, it may be worth using an infra-red thermometer to check the head temperatures of No 1 and No 4 cylinders. Maybe only hotter climates got the exit at the rear of the head.

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