Anonymous

Heater Control Valve

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
Post Reply
jclay (RIP 2018)
TRemendous
Posts: 6027
Joined: 08 Jul 2006 17:13
Location: USA

Heater Control Valve

Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 14 Jan 2009 03:40

OK, how do you replace the Heater Control Valve?

Can it be done with the heater matrix still in the car?

Do you have to remove the heater matrix from the car to make the switch?

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

Odd
TRiffic
Posts: 1969
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 08:49
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Postby Odd » 14 Jan 2009 04:06

Clay,
do you have a Wedge with AC or without AC?
There's been people who have changed out their AC heat valves with everything still in the car
(I just don't understand how they did it! They must have extra joints in their arms!) but I did it while
the entire heater/AC contraption was out of the car. Changed out the expansion valve at the
same time...

cliff
Rust Hunter
Posts: 184
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 06:08
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby cliff » 14 Jan 2009 04:26

Jclay, <b>Yes</b>, the valve can be replaced in the car. First of all you need to be something of a contortionist to get to the control valve under the dash. Loosen the clamps, remove both hoses and drill out the rivets holding the valve in. Drilling out the rivets is the most difficult part as they must be drilled out on an angle, but it is doable. Replace the rivets with screws, reinstall hoses [new] and clamps, tighten, refill and test. Replacing the heater valve is rather straight forward after you do it a couple of times.  I hope you obtained a new valve via Auto Zone/Kragens under the ReadyAire # provided in earlier posts.[:)]Cliff[8D]Don't use force, get a bigger hammer!!

windy one
Swagester
Posts: 840
Joined: 27 Oct 2008 19:57
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby windy one » 14 Jan 2009 18:32

Ive done a few and these guys are right. I really had to contort to get my hands up in there.

I saved some hassels whenever I made the replacement in my wedges. I bugged my parts-counter guy until I found a heater-valve I could utilize, and relocated it to under the hood (engine-bay). Then used (i think it was) either an old accelerator cable or a cable something like it and rigged it to the heat-lever in the dash. On one other wedge I owned I just installed a ball-valve under the dash, and modulated it by hand when I needed heat. I only made this change because I was always afraid of the OEM valves going bad and dumping coolant on my carpet.

Johnny

jclay (RIP 2018)
TRemendous
Posts: 6027
Joined: 08 Jul 2006 17:13
Location: USA

Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 15 Jan 2009 12:44

Great, but what about the probe line that is attached to the hear core? How do you run the new one? Does it unplug from the control valve and you just reuse the original?

Odd, yes, A/C.

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

92rrrandall
Wedge Pilot
Posts: 389
Joined: 22 Mar 2005 03:42
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby 92rrrandall » 15 Jan 2009 14:53

My question:

Is the "heater control valve" only part of the A/C system. My car originally had AC, but I have removed everything except the AC parts that are under the dash. If I do not use AC anymore, do I need to worry about the "heater control valve"??

Randall

windy one
Swagester
Posts: 840
Joined: 27 Oct 2008 19:57
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby windy one » 15 Jan 2009 16:00

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

Great, but what about the probe line that is attached to the hear core? How do you run the new one? Does it unplug from the control valve and you just reuse the original?

Odd, yes, A/C.

jclay


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I did away with it too. I very rarely if at all used my A/C, and it never affected my heater that I could tell. I was happy with the mod, and its reversible if i didnt like the results.

Johnny

windy one
Swagester
Posts: 840
Joined: 27 Oct 2008 19:57
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby windy one » 15 Jan 2009 16:07

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 92rrrandall</i>

My question:

Is the "heater control valve" only part of the A/C system. My car originally had AC, but I have removed everything except the AC parts that are under the dash. If I do not use AC anymore, do I need to worry about the "heater control valve"??

Randall
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

....only if you dont need heat in your car. The OEM heater valves have been known to go bad and leak coolant all over the carpet. I simply upgraded to a better one and moved it under the hood. It is good to keep one installed, especially if you live in a hotter area, in case the car starts to overheat. Helps cool the engine down.

Johnny

cliff
Rust Hunter
Posts: 184
Joined: 23 Nov 2006 06:08
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby cliff » 16 Jan 2009 01:34

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

Great, but what about the probe line that is attached to the hear core? How do you run the new one? Does it unplug from the control valve and you just reuse the original?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


jclay, The probe [capillary tube] is removed with the old valve. A slight tug will pull the tube from the heater matrix. The new valve Ready Aire #5864 from AutoZone/Kragens/O'Rielys comes with the capillary tube attached. The little black clips, I believe help keep the tube centered inside the ducting. To view the valve go to the Auto Zone page and work from either the ReadyAire #5864 or the O.E.M. #1348252-6. Be advised the Volvo application will cost a lot more than the TR application.
For those that advocate removing the valve, be advised that it connects to some of the flapper door linkage in the matrix. If memory serves me correctly it controls the defroster/demister airflow. The BL service manual doesn't do heater service justice. Victoria British has a so-so illustration that may help.
I hope this helps.[:)]
Cliff[8D]

Don't use force, get a bigger hammer!!

Alabama-Hokie
Wedgling
Posts: 10
Joined: 10 Dec 2009 03:30
Location:
Contact:

Postby Alabama-Hokie » 02 Dec 2012 12:35

I know it has been a while since this topic was active. However, I need to replace the leaking valve and I cannot locate the referenced Ready-air replacement valve. Tried Autozone, advance, O'reilly, Rock Auto, rimmer, Vicky brit, Moss. No replacement anywhere. I even tried to use all the part numbers listed in the link below. Anyone know where to source this valve. I will remove this week and worse case attempt to rebuild.

http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/crossref ... eatAC.html

Thanks,

Dave

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8917
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 02 Dec 2012 18:26

Have you tried Voluparts as mentioned in the link? How about their comment "there's probably not enough TR7's out there to carry it"?

Discount Auto parts has it.
http://www.discountautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=PC522&itempk=200365&mfr=STANDARD%20MOTOR%20PRODUCTS&weight=0.50

Looks like replacements don't have the right angle, not sure what you have to do to make it work.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
Image

jclay (RIP 2018)
TRemendous
Posts: 6027
Joined: 08 Jul 2006 17:13
Location: USA

Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 03 Dec 2012 01:36

Heater Control Valve [A/C] Ready Aire # 5864

A/C Expansion Valve Ready Aire# 4680

Application 74-76 Volvo 240 series


Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Alabama-Hokie
Wedgling
Posts: 10
Joined: 10 Dec 2009 03:30
Location:
Contact:

Postby Alabama-Hokie » 07 Dec 2012 14:10

Update:
-Discount Auto Parts.com does not actually have the part. Called them and even though it shows up it is not available.
Volvo place in Atlanta cannot source the part either.

Left now with either rebuilding the original. Getting a used part from the Volvo place in Atlanta or putting in a modified valve

Malcstag
Wedgling
Posts: 1
Joined: 24 Jun 2019 16:55

Re: Heater Control Valve

Postby Malcstag » 16 Aug 2019 14:34

I took dash off for easy access, so valve is easy to remove, just needs to buy a dremel with drill extension to get to the hidden rivet. I managed to get this valve off eBay ; Ranco H16-5000 9054 01 Heater Valve.Volvo, Triumph TR7 TR8 , Lotus, its the same part as original. But is I see replica is being made in China, not sure if any good or not! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Valve ... SwACZZtVB0

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 58 guests