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front window screen chrome trim replacement

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traveleze
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front window screen chrome trim replacement

Postby traveleze » 28 Mar 2011 16:47

Hi All,
been busy these last few months with jobs on my car, one job was to replace the chrome trim that goes around the front window screen. So had my garage bloke look at it, while he was doing another job.

He seems to think there should be a rubber seal that holds the chrome trim in place. When he took the old one off, its was stuck in place with sealant/glue etc...

He says he cant fit the new trim until he knows whether the window screen is bonded into place and the chrome trim simply glued/sealed into place etc... or, wether the window needs to come out and a new rubber seal put in that the chrome then connects into.

So, question is this, is the front window screen bonded in place along with the chrome trim, or is there a seal that needs to be purchased and the right guys onboard to re-fit the window screen?

Cheers
Steve.



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tr7sprint1
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Postby tr7sprint1 » 28 Mar 2011 17:02

No rubber was ever used. The chrome trim is inserted into the urethane bonding material holding the glass. See body section in ROM on Jclay site.




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nervousnewowner
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Postby nervousnewowner » 28 Mar 2011 22:06

am pretty sure the screen seal had two wires in it and was hooked up to a 24v battery to soften it and bond the screen in, is that right? am planning on removing and re sealing my screen with modern window sealer.....

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 29 Mar 2011 01:52

Be very careful of that trim, it's made of unobtaineum.

The trim of the 8 was installed with the windscreen. The fitter used urethane windscreen putty/sealant. When we painted the thing recently that & the screen were the only things which did not come off the car. There was no way it was going to come off, & be reusable. We had to mask it.


I had no trouble getting it off 2 different 7s that had the original cured in place sealant mentioned by nervous.

Our local people here in Oz are using a sealant that comes in a flat roll, [like self adhesive tape, but it remains somewhat soft. When my trim was installed with this it came out in about 100Km. The windscreen had now done thousands, so it just doesn't work for our trim.

I then installed it with 4 X 1.5 inch sections of urethane sealant a side. This has stayed in perfectly after curing, & I believe I will be able to cut those sections to get it out OK if I have to. Sometimes the new technology does not work all that well with our old technology cars.

Hasbeen

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Postby TR Tony » 29 Mar 2011 09:40

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

Be very careful of that trim, it's made of unobtaineum.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Actually I think it is made of stainless steel [:D]

Tony
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Jolyon39
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Postby Jolyon39 » 29 Mar 2011 09:59

Hi traveleze,

All the TR7's I have owned had windscreen leaks due to the old seal giving way. You probably need to cut out the old screen to reseal it anyway. The windscreen trim is glued into the car with the windscreen and is not made to be removed separately.

It is quite easy to remove the screen and the trim intact. The trim is in three parts, two large hockey sticks and a little center piece that is made of unobtanium.... small and easy to loose so you can find the hockey sticks but not this.



<u>Method</u>

(Key issue is the shape of the trim, it is "T" shaped.)

Two of you simply find a piece of accelerator cable, remove one strand (to make it rough and cut better) and slide it through the broken seal in some place. Now you use it like a saw, one of you on each side of the glass, pushing and pulling in sequence as you slice along the edges of the screen.

<u>Here is the trap</u>

Remember that the trim is "T" shaped so as you come up to it you have to somehow get your wire down and under the bottom of the "T". If you miss that then you will be stopped because you are sawing against the vertical of the "T", completely blocked.

<u>Solution</u>

You cut out the screen in three separate phases.

(DO NOT move the screen at all until all phases are complete or you will crack the screen.)

1. You poke a hole somewhere under the bottom of the screen, through the old rubber seal, which will probably already be loose in some small area anyway. From here you can thread your cutting wire and cut across the whole bottom and up just a little on each side until you meet the "T" trim. Think of this cut as a smile shape or "U" shape. NOTE - The section of the trim you come up to on each is a real difficult area. The leg of the "T" does not start for a couple of inches so your cutter slides up, is blocked and then is too well covered for you to access and dig to hook the cutting wire underneath the "T". Stop here and move to phase 2.

2. You now look at the center top of the screen and can see that little joiner trim in the center, the one made of unobtanium. Slide that to either the left or right, as it is designed to do, to expose the glue/seal rubber between the two hockey sticks. Now dig it out, the old rubber and or seal, with a small screwdriver and razor blade knife. Get the knife into it from inside the car too. Slip your cutting wire through, bring it up to the trim and gently against the side of the "T". Here it is, now since you have dug a hole you can use that same little screwdriver to push the wire under the "T". It will take a little effort and slow start to cutting as you get it under way. Yes it might pop up and you have to start again but keep doing it and it will work, you will get it under the "T". Now saw down to the bottom and you will find you have cut into the area already released by phase 1. Move to phase 3. DO NOT move the screen or you will snap it.

3. This phase is the mirror image of the last phase.... and when this is complete you can finally move the screen.


<u>Note:</u> you will need at least 4 sections of cutting wire as it gets hot and snaps after a while.




Jolyon


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supercass
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Postby supercass » 29 Mar 2011 12:19

I believe this is correct in that this is how they were fitted in the factory. Not sure if the voltage used was 24. I have an old Rimmers catologue and the parts for use in this fashion are listed in it. Not sure if they are in the current catologue. Apparently a big problem was that these items had a very short shelf life.


[quote]<i>Originally posted by nervousnewowner</i>

am pretty sure the screen seal had two wires in it and was hooked up to a 24v battery to soften it and bond the screen in, is that right? am planning on removing and re sealing my screen with modern window sealer.....

jbsjim
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Postby jbsjim » 29 Mar 2011 16:35

Victoria British sells the small center stainless clip. I bought one a couple years ago. It looks and fits perfectly. It just snaps on.
Jim

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nervousnewowner
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Postby nervousnewowner » 29 Mar 2011 17:23

judging by some testing on my screen the easiest way to get it out will be to brake hard at about 10 miles an hour as i seems pretty loose, probably why it leaked so much when i got in the car after i first got it in the rain after buying it and was puzzled where all the water was coming from[:0]

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jbsjim
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Postby jbsjim » 29 Mar 2011 20:39

Your brakes are better than mine! [:D]

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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 29 Mar 2011 21:14

On my cars, you can look in the gaps between the ends of the stainless trim and the black valence and see the tiny piece of wire used to cure the sealant.

Clay

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nick
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Postby nick » 30 Mar 2011 00:20

Be careful removing the windscreen. I managed to break mine without much trouble. So my attempt to correct the katiwampus trim ended up a bit expensive.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 30 Mar 2011 01:01

Sounds like they may have opened up a new unobtaineum mine somewhere. Thank god for that.

Hasbeen

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