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Needle Bearings

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cozyheatdave
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Needle Bearings

Postby cozyheatdave » 27 Nov 2010 20:41

Could someone point me in the right direction.

I'm all over Beans' blog looking for the rebuild of the front struts using the bearings at the top. Mine are not swiveling free and I don't know what I've done wrong.

I can't seem to find the right page with all the pictures. I've tried the "Search" here on the forum, but it always times out without results. My internet speed is good, but I think that big pond between us slows things down.

Thanks in advance for the link to the section I'm looking for.

Bobbieslandy
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Postby Bobbieslandy » 27 Nov 2010 20:58

Have you fitted the bearings and have found they're not as free as they should be?

Rob.

ImageImageImage

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 27 Nov 2010 21:08

Yes, exactly right.
The struts are on the bench.

If I turn the top plate the rubber parts drag.

kstrutt1
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Postby kstrutt1 » 27 Nov 2010 21:31

which bearings are you using, the standard ones or Ford roller bearings?

In my experince the standard ones always have a degree of drag, but roller ones shouldn't have any.

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 27 Nov 2010 21:44

I don't know anything about Ford roller bearings.
These came from Rimmers Bros.

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 27 Nov 2010 23:48

Laid out:
Image

Poly bushing:
Image

First metal plate:
Image

Needle bearings:
Image

Second metal plate:
Image

Metal cone:
Image

Rubber mount:
Image

Clay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 28 Nov 2010 01:10

Thanks for the pictures.
Everything seems to be assembled correctly. Obviously I'm doing something wrong.

In the picture below the metal cone swivels very smooth.

Image

In this picture below, the plate with the rubber base swivels very nicely against the metal cone. When I get this far it seems everything is going to work perfectly.

Image

Then when I put the cupped washer and nut on then everything begins to rub. The post that the nut threads to does not move freely. So, then nut and washer have friction against the plate and rubber base. In other words, the post, nut, and cupped washer are grinding against the movement of the plate and cone.

Should the post be swiveling? Does the nut and washer with the post swivel with the rest of the assembly? If so, what should I look for, why don't either of mine swivel?

Image

Bobbieslandy
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Postby Bobbieslandy » 28 Nov 2010 20:40

I used different bearings from Robsport, these have "Ford" stamped on them and have a rubber skirt ([:0]) on them. i machined it off though as part of the mods i made. i also had problems with the strut being stiff too. Initially i'd been overtightening the damper nut which sits in that dish, i then tightened it to the correct torque but found it was still stiffer than the original thrust washer! after that i made some mods to the alloy cones to lower the front end slightly and hey presto all was well, i've now got the lightest steering of any non PAS car i've ever driven. As long as you're 100% you've assembled them correctly then fit them anyway, you might find that once the weight of the car is on them they'll work as they should. Personally i'd be trying to get them to swivel freely before fitting them! Sorry i couldn't be of more use.

Image

Rob.

ImageImageImage

cozyheatdave
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Postby cozyheatdave » 28 Nov 2010 22:06

I have wondered if by setting the weight of the car on it that the problem will be solved.

I have a brand new Spax shock in the tube.

Questions:
1.) Is the shock post suppose to spin freely? Or does it rotate more easily with the weight of the car?

2.) I currently am using a nylon lock nut. Is that what is recommended?

3.) What is the torque specification for that nut? and, is it accurate to measure it when I have a nylon lock nut?

4.) Well... no four. Thanks so much for the help.

Bobbieslandy
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Postby Bobbieslandy » 28 Nov 2010 22:40


jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 28 Nov 2010 22:46

The metal cone bottoms on the shoulder machined in the cartridge shaft. The metal cone and everything above it stay stationary when mounted to the car. Everything below the cone rotates against the needle bearings.

Clay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

trekcarbonboy
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Postby trekcarbonboy » 29 Nov 2010 12:44

Mine didn't spin freely when out of the car either. Never really expected them too. I just figured that was how it is. And once installed they made a huge difference anyway. I say just put them in.

Craig
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 29 Nov 2010 16:52

Can't remember specifically but seems to me there was some drag on them (using needle bearings). When on the car and car on jackstands turning the wheel from lock to lock is effortless (with the mechanical advantage.) Checks for steering rack binding as well. With the small TR8 wheel on a Spider it's pretty heavy when turning into a parking spot but effortless on the highway.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spitfire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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