After speaking to a couple of people I decided that repairing the hub would be too costly so I visited the shed of a mate & emerged with a replacement hub. When I got it back home & compared it with the hub from my car I found that mine was not your standard setup. The basic hub was the same but it had 2 spacers. One to correct the offset of the Capri vented disc & the other so that the tyre cleared the locking rings of the adjudtable spring seat. I'd never realised the spacers were there before (or at least thought they were standard issue) because I bought the struts with the hubs as a unit & had just bolted them on as is. Another case of learning about the car as things break. You can see the 2 spacer rings marked by the arrows.
The big one has to be drifted onto the hub & the bolts that secure the disc go thru it so is all very snug while the bottom spacer is held on by a collar so to the untrained eye (mine) it looks like they're meant to be there. Before you ask I do have certification for these mods but the fact that I use another 10mm spacer to correct the offest of the MGF wheels I use when I'm racing means I'm losing 15mm of stud thread. This is one reason why I've managed to strip a couple of them & why I use a separate set of shanked wheel nuts for these MGF rims. The shanked nuts use about 17mm of thread on the stud which I'm told is sufficient.
I think I recall in discussions on brake mods that alternative discs required the caliper offsets to be adjusted by spacers but I thought that spacing the disc was an easier solution.
Comparing the capri disc with the standard TR7 item is an eye-opener. I think some of the wife's pans are made of thicker metal. [:)]
With the replacement hub assembled with all the extras I removed the old bearings, cleaned out the old grease & replaced with new stuff. It's handy to use the old races to help drift the new ones in place but you need to cut thru the old race so it doesn't get stuck in the hub as well. When I put the hub back on the axle I tightened the axle nut (which is a 15/16ths FYI) so the wheel would hardly turn, backed it off then torqued it up to a dainty 5 ft/lbs & finally backed it off 1/2 a flat. The book says a whole flat but it seemed too loose to me.
We had a break in the weather so I took it for a 5 minute test drive & returned home after about 30 minutes.[8D] The vibration had gone so I hope that's another job done. I'll recheck the tightness in a couple of days.
The map:
http://tinyurl.com/wedgemap . The blog:
http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548
