sonscar wrote: ... I seem to remember a line in the Haynes manual"using a suitable screwdriver unscrew and remove the studs" ...
Howard_B wrote:Success at last - with the aid of the head removal tool we freed three studs and managed to move the head sufficiently to cut the last one off. The remains came out of the block without any problems. but the part in the head will need to be pressed out. Thanks for everyone's advice.
While the engine is out and the head is off I am considering what, if anything, else should be done to the engine. Its done just over 100k miles (160k Km) of which 40k has been during the last ten years in my ownership. Since I plan to keep it on the road for as long as possible, I would appreciate any suggestions.
Oil pressure currently is just under 50 when cold dropping to about 25 on tick over when hot. When I had the oil pressure gauges fitted in 2010 the pressures were about 55 & 35 but some of the fall may be down to different oil.
Aside from the cylinder with the burnt valve the compression test was good and the car burns very little oil (during the 10CR & RBRR runs which involve about 2000 miles of serious driving in a few day it doesn't need topping up) & the power output was very close to the original specification (confirmed by max speed on an Autobahn). Unless it was rebuilt in the first few years of its life, where my records are incomplete, the engine is totally original.
Currently my thoughts are:-
1) Replace the main bearings & grind crankshaft if necessary to match.
2) Change timing chain (and check gears for wear - I had these replaced after I purchased the car)
3) Retain existing pistons - there are very small lips in the cylinders which can be honed out.