Like Hasbeen I cleaned all the handbrake's moving parts in the rear drums back to clean metal with a wire brush attachment in an angle grinder. Lubricating or greasing them afterwards attracts brake dust which gums up the mechanism so I just use graphite powder. I reckon it takes about 2 years before they need cleaning again. One of those electroplating kits would probably stop the surface rust reappearing. New brake adjusters are available for £90.00 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AAU8994
Other problems I've found are the rubber bush disintegrating within the central compensator and wear on the back plates where the handbrake levers pivot against it. The backplate wear was removed with a small amount of weld filed back to the original profile.
Embarrassingly I found out the hard way as to why my handbrake cable has always been at the limit of its adjustment. I thought I'd share it in case anyone's having the same problem.
Ever since I bought my Wedge back in 1986, the handbrake just passed the mot and before each test I had to clean up the handbrake mechanism, including the self adjusting ratchet plates on the brake shoes, replacing them exactly as I found them. I did one side at a time referring to photos I'd taken before dismantling. My Haynes manual diagram was none too clear, so had to refer to the photos. Unfortunately, before my ownership, the self adjusting mechanism had been put back incorrectly.........
It should look like this (courtesy of a Jensen Healey forum). https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/Ni ... cGVn/?ref=
It had been assembled like this. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tr7+h ... QJSPbRceXM
The larger of the plates had been fitted upside down. Subsequently there was less metal for the handbrake mechanism to push against and all the cable adjustment was needed to work the handbrake. The ratchet teeth were compromised and prone to wear out prematurely as they weren't positioned as intended. I returned mine to the correct position but the ratchets on one set wouldn't work correctly. I managed to rescue them by running a fine hacksaw blade gently between all the teeth on both sides. Now there's plenty of adjustment and the handbrake works fine. If the teeth don't engage properly, the handbrake won't work properly.
TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1990 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.