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Cylinder head sequence

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swordfishdani1960
Wedgling
Posts: 44
Joined: 06 Jul 2016 16:33

Cylinder head sequence

Postby swordfishdani1960 » 13 Jan 2018 10:10

I am at the stage of having to remove the cyclinder head from my tr 7
1 have 3 manuals that are all different ways of removing the bolts
i Have the Leyland car operations manual , part number RTC9201
The haynes Truimph tr7 1976 to 1982, my car is a 1978 model
I have watched on utube the tr7 TR,club change a cyclinder head
and its different from the rest .and then theres the Rimmer bros video
ON UTUBE ,that different as well
No wonder that Truimph had a bad name ,no one new what the hell was
going on ,i have a small water leak into my oil .i top up the water by 300 ml a month
can i live with this , no loss in power or compression all cylinders ,measure 165 lbs i change the oil every 6 months i only do 4000 miles a year.can i live with white smoke coming out my tail pipe ,or do i distroy my engine trying
to remove the 5 studs its only done 68000 miles the engine bay is spotless no rust on
the studs

Stag76
Swagester
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Joined: 22 Jun 2010 04:14
Location: Australia
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Re: Cylinder head sequence

Postby Stag76 » 13 Jan 2018 10:40

Is the oil turning creamy from the water...300ml is a fair amount
considering the low mileage you do. The oil level should be increasing
with that much water being added. Are you sure it's going into the oil,
and not a faulty cap etc.

If you decide to remove the head, do NOT spray WD40 or any other brand
of cricket's p!ss on the studs...it protects any corrosion between the alloy head
and the steel studs, making it impossible to break down.
Vinegar will break it down.

swordfishdani1960
Wedgling
Posts: 44
Joined: 06 Jul 2016 16:33

Re: Cylinder head sequence

Postby swordfishdani1960 » 13 Jan 2018 11:48

Yea, theres is creamy. deposits, are in the air pipes that supply air from the rocker
cover to the carbs, none at the top of the filler cap its the white smoke at start up that comes from the exhaust

sonscar
Wedge Pilot
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Joined: 02 Jun 2013 16:09
Location: United Kingdom

Re: Cylinder head sequence

Postby sonscar » 13 Jan 2018 12:54

I would have the cooling system pressure tested before removing anything.Old cars do produce white smoke/steam on startup.I would wish you luck removing the head,I did it to replace all the valves after the camchain wore out,it was character building.Steve..

swordfishdani1960
Wedgling
Posts: 44
Joined: 06 Jul 2016 16:33

Re: Cylinder head sequence

Postby swordfishdani1960 » 13 Jan 2018 14:18

Thanks ,i haven't replaced the timing chain yet .normally they say change it when it gets noisy ,was there any signs of your chain breaking .i now it can be expensive
my car is not over heating the gage has always been below the quarter mark ,oil is clean i have never toped up the oil in the years having the car ,its wise to change the oil every 6 months ,this only cost under 25 pounds for oil filter

busheytrader
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Re: Cylinder head sequence

Postby busheytrader » 13 Jan 2018 18:20

+1 for having a coolant pressure test before taking the head off.

I'm used to a bit of "condensation" dropping out of the breather pipe's oil vapour on a cold day especially if the car hasn't put on many miles. There's no moisture collecting inside the rocker covers, dipstick or oil filler cap. There's no oil or exhaust gas in the coolant and no coolant loss. (The moisture is drawn in from the cold outside air)

I've always found that if the coolant is filled up to the filler cap, it will always lose the top 25 to 30mm from the header tank and stay constant afterwards. (V8 or 2 litre)

On my 2.0L engine the water pump leaked at around 33k / 6 years old from the usual place but lost about a pint per fifty miles.

Hope this helps.

Adam

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